American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Huayna Potosí, West Face and Ancohuma, Cordillera Real

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Huayna Potosí, West Face and Ancohuma, Cordillera Real. During June Miro and Pogacar, Viljem Božic, Blaž Jereb, Borut Kersnik, Franc Ferjan and Miha Zumer were in the Cordillera Real. On June 9 they camped under the west face of Huaya Potosí. On June 11 they made an acclimatization climb, traversing Maria Lloco (5522 meters, 18,117 feet) from north to south. On June 13 they started up the west face of Huayna Potosí on what may have been a new route on the left of the face. They climbed to the left of the hanging glacier to reach the ridge, which they followed to the summit. The first part was 50° and the top 60°. They had much hard, brittle ice. They bivouacked on the hanging glacier and 100 meters below the summit (6088 meters, 19,975 feet), which they reached early on June 15. They descended the southwest ridge, bivouacking once more. On June 20 they jeeped to the Quebrada San Francisco and camped near the lake at 14,750 feet. On June 23 Božic, Ferjan and Pogacar and on June 25 Jereb and Kersnik reached the summit of Ancohuma by the normal route.

Franci Savenc, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.