American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Southern Peru Ananea, North Face and Other Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Ananea, North Face and Other Ascents. From a base near lake Trapiche and one high camp, Alain Besson, Pierre Bossy and Serge Marjolin, members of a Megève expedition, made the first ascent on June 1 of the north face of Ananea (5824 meters, 19,111 feet), which was described as “très sauvage, mais sans grande difficulté technique.” Different groups of the same expedition also climbed Ananea (standard route), Chocñacota (5630 meters, 18,471 feet; called by the Italians “Club Alpino Italiano” and reported as “Cholkene” by the French), “Donegani” (5710 meters, 17,734 feet), Flor de Roca (5808 meters, 19,058 feet) by the east face and Chaupi Oreo (6044 meters, 19,833 feet), which the Italians know as Salluyo.

Sylvain Soquet, Club Alpin Français

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