American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Southern Peru, Jatunccampa and Carhuaco Puncu Este

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Jatunccampa and Carhuaco Puncu Este*, Cordillera Vilcanota. David Wilkinson and I visited the Colque Cruz range in August. Base Camp was placed at Yanacocha after a truck drive and two days’ walk from Cuzco. On August 9 we climbed a new route on Jatunccampa (c. 5750 meters, 18,865 feet) by the north couloir and west ridge and on August 12 the fine though short south face of Carhuaco Punco Este (c. 5650 meters, 18,537 feet). Carhuaco Punco has two summits separated by a long complicated ridge. Both summits appear to be of equal height. No previous ascent of the east summit is recorded. During the night of August 18, while asleep in Base Camp, we were attacked by bandits who set fire to the tent and then stoned us with impressive accuracy. We were finally robbed of nearly all our equipment, but we were fortunately not seriously injured. Armed robbery is certainly not new to South America but up to now it has been confined to popular tourist locations. Whilst not wishing to deter people from visiting the Vilcanota area, which is a superb place to climb and has a majority of friendly people, we point out that the problem of security is increasing.

Lindsay Griffin, Alpine Climbing Group

* Names from the Ocongate Sheet of the IGN (Hoja 28-t).

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