American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordilleras Huayhuash and Raura, Yerupajá, East Spur Attempt, 1982

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Yerupajá, East Spur Attempt, 1982. An Italian expedition composed of Ugo Vialardi, leader, Giovanni Boggio, Tiziano Fiorese, Fabrizio Badone and Mauro Penasa failed to complete a partially new route on the east spur of Yerupajá. The beginning of their route was different from that of Wurm and Majerl, who climbed the east spur to the summit on June 24, 1969 (A.A.J., 1970, page 64). The Austrians climbed onto the spur from a camp at 5700 meters on the east face, while the Italians attacked the spur on its southeastern foot and tried to climb the whole of the spur. After establishing Base Camp beside Carhuacocha on July 24, 1982, they placed Camp I on July 26 and Camp II on July 27 at the very foot of the buttress at 5200 meters. They had placed 350 meters of rope on a great dihedral on the difficult rock by July 31 before an accident to Fiorese caused them to retire. On August 4 Badone, Penasa and Vialardi were back. They bivouacked five times and fixed 800 meters of rope in mixed terrain before they set up Camp III at 5800 meters. On August 9 they continued up the very steep ice of the spur to place Camp IV on the top of the spur (6300 meters, 21,381 feet) because of deep snow and unstable cornices. (We are grateful to Signor Penasa for this information.)

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