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South America, Peru—Cordilleras Huayhuash and Raura, Puscanturpa Norte, North Buttress

Puscanturpa Norte, North Buttress. In June, I climbed solo the north buttress of Puscanturpa Norte. When I climbed it I had thought it was a first ascent but I later read that it had been done by Italians in 1981. (See A.A.J., 1983, pages 196-7.) The previous ascent was spread over three weeks and required at least one full pitch of aid. I climbed from a bivouac at the base. I spent six hours on the rock from the beginning of the difficulties to reach the summit. I did it all free. The rock was excellent apart from scree on the ledges and the climbing ranged from 5.7 to 5.10 with the average difficulty being about 5.8.

Jeff Lowe