American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Artesonraju, Southeast Face, and Pisco Oeste, from Laguna Parón

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Artesonraju, Southeast Face, and Pisco Oeste, from Laguna Parón. Since it is not possible to get to the other end of Laguna Parón on foot, we crossed it in a rubber boat we were lucky enough to borrow. Base Camp was at the far end of the lake. On June 14 we started for Artesonraju and placed two camps, the higher at 17,050 feet at the foot of the southeast face. On June 16 Dario Crosato, Franco Toso and Andrea Orlini attacked the face, first up 500 feet of rock, then up a steep tongue of snow. They left séracs on their left and emerged on the east ridge, which they followed to the summit. They feel that the whole east ridge would have been more complicated and difficult. They bivouacked at 19,000 feet on the descent. Lucio Apollonio, Dario Baldassi, Raimondo Durin and Orlini climbed Pisco Oeste from the Laguna Parón, possibly by a new route. They climbed up to the glacier that descends from the Pisco peaks and Chacra- raju and up granite slabs below the north face of Pisco Este. They traversed right to climb between the rock face and the glacier that descends from Huandoy and Pisco Oeste. They bivouacked at 16,750 feet. On June 20 they ascended between the rock and the icefall where it was least difficult and dangerous to reach the ridge crest, which they followed to the summit. They bivouacked at 17,725 feet on the descent. Other members were Laura Feresin, Maurizio Fernetti, Massimo Tommasini and I.

Giordano Feresin, Club Alpino Italiano

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