American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, French Route, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Huascarán Norte, French Route, North Face. During mid July Tom Sciolino and I climbed the 1966 French Route on the north face of Huascarán Norte. The approach from Lake Llanganuco to the base of the face took 1½ days. From a bivy site in the ’shrund at the foot of the spur, the climb required the better part of 5 days. We descended via La Garganta to Musho. We encountered unconsolidated snow ridges and flutings, and difficult rock and ice. Although loose in sections, the climb was free from rockfall (unlike the north face proper). Given its diverse and challenging nature, the route is indeed a classic.

Mark Hesse

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.