Huascarán Norte, New Route on North Face. José L. Moreno, Carlos Val- lés and I made a new route on the north face of Huascarán Norte. It lies left of Casarotto’s 1978 route and is principally on rock with small stretches of ice and mixed climbing. It rises 4000 feet and has four pitches of UIAA VI and one of A3. The ice was in places vertical. We climbed the rock mostly in rock-climbing shoes. The first part was exposed to rockfall. We spent the first ten days carrying equipment from the Llanganuco Lakes across the crevassed glacier to the foot of the wall and acclimatizing. For the next four days we fixed 1250 feet of rope on the spur. The final alpine-style attack took seven days and got us to the summit on July 20.
Juan Tomás, Centre Excursionista de Catalunya, Spain