American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Climbing in Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Climbing in Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. Rolf Zemp and Alex Clapasson from Switzerland made an ascent of Asgard under winter conditions in early May. On July 19 Canadians John Amatt, Ivan Wambera, Peter Hunter, Bob Rector, Richard Johnson, George Steber and L. Breton climbed the north summit of Mount Tyr from Summit Lake via the east slope, which they found easy. Australians David Wagland and John Stone ascended “Kilabuk” (Freya’s east peak) on July 14 via the Scott route on the east face; the verglased chimney was a horror. They climbed Loki on the 16th by the south face via a crack system up a narrow, square-cut pillar, left of the 1982 Stanley-Parker-Lee route, to the west ridge. On July 18 these two ascended Asgard’s north peak by the 1953 Swiss route despite iced pitches and strong winds. An English group from Nottingham University made a number of ascents. On July 19 Andy Perkins ascended the easy south ridge of Mount Duval, Sean Dougherty climbed the easy south face of “Anaqaq I,” while Ian Beckington, John Graham and Mark Nicholson climbed Asgard’s north peak via the Swiss route. On July 26 Beck- ingham, Graham and Parkins climbed “Bilbo” via the west face and ridge and Beckingham and Perkins continued along the ridge to the south to climb a new peak they called “Isengard.” On July 27 Dougherty and Nicholson ascended Umik via the loose south gully while Beckingham and Graham climbed “Frodo” via the south face. Daniel Longpré, Danielle Girard, Christianne Gauthier, Colette Bernier, Alain Gauthier, Patricia Lucas and Richard Duber from Montreal climbed Freya on August 5, Adlok on the 6th and Tyr on the 7th.

Ray Breneman, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island

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