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North America, Canada, Mount Goodsir, North Face, Kootenay Group

Mount Goodsir, North Face, Kootenay Group. In April Kevin Doyle and I climbed the true north face of Mount Goodsir in a sustained three-day epic. The face, which is one of the largest in the Canadian Rockies, provided 6000 feet of mainly snow-and-ice climbing. Difficulties are concentrated in getting onto the initial hanging glacier (110° ice) and a mixed section connecting the ramp systems, where we used some aid. Expecting a rapid ascent, we did not take bivouac equipment and had two cold nights, the second in a storm. We down- climbed the face to the left, the northeast face, which is not recommended because of its avalanche gullies and rotten rock.

David Cheesmond