American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Mount Goodsir, North Face, Kootenay Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Mount Goodsir, North Face, Kootenay Group. In April Kevin Doyle and I climbed the true north face of Mount Goodsir in a sustained three-day epic. The face, which is one of the largest in the Canadian Rockies, provided 6000 feet of mainly snow-and-ice climbing. Difficulties are concentrated in getting onto the initial hanging glacier (110° ice) and a mixed section connecting the ramp systems, where we used some aid. Expecting a rapid ascent, we did not take bivouac equipment and had two cold nights, the second in a storm. We down- climbed the face to the left, the northeast face, which is not recommended because of its avalanche gullies and rotten rock.

David Cheesmond

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.