American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan Traverse and Ski Descent, 1982

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Mount Logan Traverse and Ski Descent, 1982. Greg Grange, Andy Lapkas, Steve Monfredo and I flew on May 26, 1982 to 6500 feet on the Hubbard Glacier, six miles from Logan’s east ridge. Of the total 52-mile traverse, the three-mile east ridge consumed over half our time and most of our energy. Twenty-five miles of skiing across the summit plateau led us over AINA Pass and down the King Trench route. Ultimately the Quintino Sella Glacier delivered us to the Bagley Icefield in Alaska, where a bush pilot picked us up after we had been out for 30 days. We were storm-bound on the summit plateau for eight days. The incredible 13,000-vertical-foot descent on skis from below King Col, which took two days, made the psychologically draining days in snow caves and the physical hardship of triple and double carries up the east ridge seem far removed.

Peter Dea, Green Duck Expeditions

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