Tuolumne Meadows, 1983. This area received its first official guidebook in 1983, written by local climbing guides Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein. Here are some routes done since the publication of the guide. Bastard from the Bush (5.11) climbs three pitches above a large pine tree to the right of American Wet Dream, done by Ed Barry and Alan Bartlett. Get Sick (5.11-) lies on Low Profile Dome between Black Widow and Steep Thrills, climbed by Phil Bard. Also done by Bard is Old Folks’ Boogie (5.10 + ) to the right of Comfortably Numb on East Cottage Dome. Countdown (5.11) is a sparsely-protected two-pitch route left of Rivendell Crack, climbed by John Bachar. Brainwave (5.9) ascends the face between Voice of the Crags and Shot in the Dark, climbed by Bachar, Mike Waugh and Darryl Nakamura. Sole on Ice (5.10 + ) lies left of Aztec Two-Step and was done by Bartlett, Dimitri Barton and Robb Dellinger. Roseanne (5.9) ascends Fairview Dome between Uh-Huh and Great Pumpkin, joining Uh-Huh at the base of its large roof. It was climbed by Bartlett and James Wilson. Black Rider (5.10 - ) climbs the streak right of Nazgul, joining that route near the top, and was done by Bartlett and Dellinger. Swinger (5.11) is a continuation of the route formerly known as Lechlinski Flake, and was done by Bachar and Ron Kauk. West Farthing Wall: Four routes were done on this wall last year between Maniac’s Maneuver and S.O.S. From left to right they are Kryptonite (5.9), Master Samwise (5.9)., The Three Stooges (5.8), and Rock’n Rope (5.8). They were climbed by Alan Bartlett with various partners including Ann Maas, Virginia Morency, Mike Dobbins and Robb and Beth Dellinger.
Alan Bartlett, Yosemite Mountaineering School