American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Watchtower, Timex and Nightwatch

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

The Watchtower, Timex and Nightwatch. On August 15 Dick Saum, Steve Tucker and I climbed “Timex,” a fine free route on the imposing main face of this formation near the head of Tokopah Valley. High-quality climbing characterized the route with some 5.9 moves on almost every lead of this steep eight- pitch route. A topo of the climb is available at the nearby visitor’s center. IV, 5.9. About one-quarter mile west of the Watchtower, along the same ridge, is a major buttress distinguished by two large cracks forming a “V”. The upper portion of the right crack lies in an immense left-facing dihedral. This 700-foot route, “Nightwatch,” follows the right crack which is actually a chimney for the last four pitches. A jog left on the third pitch involves difficult 5.9+ face- climbing and avoids the mossy chimney directly above. The climbing is continuous and evidence of an earlier attempt (nuts with initials P.J. were found at the first two belays) was noted. Some caution should be exercised because of loose rock lodged in the chimney. Rick Smith and I climbed this route in September. IV, 5.9.

Herb Laeger. Unaffiliated

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