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North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Chiquito Ridge, Eagle Beaks Area

Chiquito Ridge, Eagle Beaks Area. This indistinct cliff band is located on the west side of Chiquito Ridge northwest of Eagle Beaks. On the U.S.G.S. topo Shuteye Peak, the wall is the formation under the red location number 12. In May 1982 Mark Blanchard, Conrad Van Bruggen and I established two routes on this wall. “Soft Shoe Shuffle” starts atop a third-class shoulder. Moderate face-climbing leads past a bolt to an obvious right-leaning flake. From the top, face moves lead to a belay ledge. A wide right slanting flake/crack— obvious from the ground—leads to an easy roof. Above, climb a knobby face to a low-angle area. The second belay is 40 feet to the right. The final pitch ascends the obvious left-facing dihedral. II, 5.8. “Walk We Crawl” climbs the face 30 feet left of Soft Shoe Shuffle. Climb face holds up, then left, then up again past a bolt to a large ledge. Friction moves off the right end lead to a shallow dihedral. Climb the face to a belay in a low-angled area. Climb up via a thin crack to an obvious left-arching crack. Another easy pitch leads to the unroping spot. Descend by rappelling the cliff band near the right side. II, 5.7.

Simon King, Unaffiliated