AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Stuart Range

Stuart Range. Several new routes were climbed in the Stuart Range. The west face of Colchuck Balanced Rock (Grade IV, 5.10, A2) was climbed in early August by Mark Twight and Mark Johnston. This steep wall is seen from the Colchuck Lake area. The line follows a vaguely direct line in the center of the face. Mark Twight reports 12 pitches of mostly superb crack climbing. The route turns the huge roof, at half height, to the left (A2 hooks and Friends). Above the roof, a 5.9 hand crack leads to another roof, a hideously loose squeeze chimney and another roof before two easier pitches end on the summit. In early July the prominent pillar to the left of the Beckey-Niccoli route on the northeast face of the false summit on Mount Stuart was climbed by Kit Lewis and me. We spent two days on the climb, climbing a spectacular crack system on the right (north) wall of the pillar. Grade V, 5.10, A1.

Jim Nelson