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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Grey Beard, North Face

Grey Beard, North Face. On a one-day excursion on May 9, my brother Carl and I climbed this face. The route begins up the obvious central couloir to gain Grey Beard’s lower snowfield. Climbing up and left, we found a hidden gully which allowed access to the central face and bypassed the first rock band. Then by traversing right, we encountered the crux while ascending the second rock band (loose snow over rock). Above that, a couloir was followed to the summit. Conditions varied from excellent water-ice to unconsolidated snow on rock, at a constant 60° to 70°. Grade III or IV.

Gordy Skoog