American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, West Ridge via the Northwest Spur

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Mount Hunter, West Ridge via the Northwest Spur. On the evening of June 1 Boudewijn, Ronald Binnebösz, Ton Hoenevelt, Frans Kerren, Arie Korving and I left our camp on the Kahiltna Glacier to climb to the west ridge via the northwest spur which joins the west ridge at P10,610. After crossing crevasses in the lower part of the basin, we hit unstable “sugar” snow on the west side of the spur. It took us until morning to reach 9000 feet, where we dug a snow cave. Bad weather and 15 inches of fresh snow stopped us for a day. At midnight on June 3 Binnebösz and I left to explore the upper part of the spur. Halfway up to the west ridge we heard voices of two climbers descending the ridge. They were Bibler and Klewin who had climbed the north buttress. During the night of June 4 our whole group climbed the spur to the ridge and dug a second snow cave in the saddle just east of P 10,610. The next day, June 5, we left at nine A.M., climbed the ridge and reached the summit at seven P.M. We were back in the upper snow cave at midnight. We down-climbed our route except for three rappels in the following evening and night.

Han Timmers, Koninklijke Nederlandse Alpen-Vereniging

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