American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Mustagh Ata

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Mustagh Ata. Our group of eleven rode with jeep and truck south from Kashgar. On July 4 we reached a Kirghiz settlement, Jambukuk, at 12,500 feet, west of Mustagh Ata. Five camels carried our loads to 14,750 feet below the Chal Tumak Glacier on July 6. We climbed alpine style on the part of the mountain between the Chal Tumak and the Tergen Bulak Glaciers, a different route from five of the previous climbs, but the same as the American-Canadian group of September 1981. One climber at our first high camp had high-altitude mountain sickness and had to return to Kashgar, where he recovered. We camped at 17,050, 20,000 and 22,000 feet. The chief difficulty was breaking trail. On July 17 Erich Hofwimmer, Gottfried Heinzei, Baltasar Kendler, Helmut Wagner and I reached the summit (7546 meters, 24,757 feet).

Marcus Schuck, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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