American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Gang Ben Chen

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Gang Ben Chen. We left Lhasa on March 22 and established Base Camp at 15,250 feet on March 27 and Advance Base at 18,700 feet on April 4, both on the Boron Plain. Camp I was on the small glacier north of Gang Ben Chen at 20,450 feet. We placed Camp II at 22,000 feet on the snow face above the icefall. Camp III was pitched at 23,300 feet on April 20. On April 21 Riyuko Morimoto, Kozo Matsubayashi, Kazunari Ushida, Shiro Koshima, Takao Morito, Goro Hitomi, Kiyoshi Nakagawa and Hiroshi Kondo climbed to the summit (7281 meters, 23,888 feet) in 2½ hours. The weather was fine and the route not difficult. The next day Shoichiro Ueo, Takashi Nishiyama and Rikuyo Morimoto stood on the summit too.

Yoshio Kondo, Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto, Japan

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