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Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir

Tirich Mir. Our expedition consisted of Anton Knecht, Eric Marchand, Paul Beyeler, Ernst Hunziker, Heinz Fahrer, Pierre Galland, Daniel Chevallier and me as leader. We climbed the Czech route of 1968. After a four-day approach, we reached Base Camp on the north side of Tirich Mir at 14,750 feet on June 21. We had no high-altitude porters. Because of bad weather and nearly daily snowfall, we had to set up six camps instead of the planned four. We set up camps at 17,050, 18,700, 19,350, 20,675, 21,650 and 23,625 feet on June 22, 25, 28, July 5, 8 and 11 respectively. On July 11 five members were at Camp V and three at Camp VI, but bad weather set in. On July 13 four climbers went to Camp VI but three returned to Camp V. On July 14 Knecht went solo to the summit (7708 meters, 25,284 feet). Further ascents were prevented by bad weather. We left Base Camp on July 19.

Markus Itten, Schweizer Alpen Club