Saraghrar Northwest II. Our expedition was composed of Enrique Lucas, Ricardo Herrero, Nil Bohigas, Néstor Bohigas, Antonio García, Joan Martí and me as leader. We climbed the southwest buttress of Saraghrar Northwest II without oxygen, without high-altitude porters, without high camps nor tents. We established Base Camp on July 13 at 14,100 feet at the junction of the Rosh Gol Glacier and a tributary glacier southwest of the Saraghrar group. After depositing supplies at 15,900 feet on July 14, we started on the face at 16,100 feet on July 15 and had placed Advanced Base at 17,225 feet by July 19. By August 2 we had fixed rope to 19,700 feet. From August 4 to 8 we moved up the buttress, bivouacking at 19,000, 20,850, 21,325, 22,475 and 23,000 feet. The climbing was difficult. On August 9 Enrique Lucas, Nil Bohigas and I climbed to the summit of Sargahrar Northwest II (7200 meters, 23,622 feet), which we reached at ten A.M. The peak we climbed is the fourth one west of the highest summit. The third and fourth are Saraghrar Northwest, which has two tops. The more easterly one, which we did not climb, is about 100 meters higher than our top.
Juan López Díaz, Cataluña, Spain