American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Kuksar

Pakistan, Batura Karakoram

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: 1982
  • Publication Year: 1983

This previously unattempted peak, which lies at the head of the Batura Glacier in the northwestern Karakoram, was climbed in July. Success was marred by a fatal accident which during the descent befell the two members who reached the summit. The expedition members were Tim Hurrel, leader, Steve Brodrick, Martin Gledhill and me. Following extensive reconnaissance, we attempted the peak alpine style from Advance Base at 17,725 feet by a broad couloir in its southwest flank, followed by the short ridge. An attempt by Gledhill and me was aborted at 21,000 feet. On July 19 Brodrick and Hurrell reached the summit (6934 meters, 22,750 feet) after two bivouacs. On July 20, on their descent, they were swept to their deaths by an avalanche in the couloir. We found their bodies on July 22 and buried them in a crevasse. A diary and films were found, which authenticated the ascent. Poor snow conditions and unsettled weather prevailed throughout the expedition. The area, despite a tedious glacier approach, offers a number of attractive, unclimbed peaks of 21,325 to 23,625 feet.

Martin Hore, England

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