American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Passu Peak Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Passu Peak Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Mamoru Shimizu, Norihide Taniuchi, Makihiro Wakao, Kazuhisa Ikegami, Hitoshi Mitsuishi, Kanichi Ichikawa and me as leader. We placed Base Camp at 13,300 feet on May 22 after a three-day approach from Passu village. From 13,950 to 16,250 feet there was a dangerous icefall; we prepared the route there from May 28 to June 3. Camps I, II and III were established at 16,250, 18,875 and 21,000 feet on June 4, 7 and 13 respectively. We skied between Camps II and III. Bad weather kept us from establishing Camp IV at 21,650 feet until June 20. Wakao and I started for a summit try on skis but at 22,950 feet we had a radio message that Ichikawa was suffering from high-altitude sickness in Camp III and we descended. On June 23 we carried him to Camp I but he died of pulmonary edema on the 24th. Our expedition was over.

Toshio Narita. Japanese Alpine Club

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