American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Bubuli-Mo-Tin, Ultar Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Bubuli-Mo-Tin, Ultar Group. Jacques Maurin and I made the first ascent of a 6000-meter (19,685-foot) tower, a satellite of the Ultar group on May 22. It lies southwest of Bojohaghur Duan Asir between the Ultar and Hasanabad Glaciers. We ascended north from Karimabad, a village just east of Baltit. We reached the summit in three days from Karimabad. The climb was mixed ice and rock and at times was very difficult. The approach was threatened by avalanches. We climbed to the east col and up the east ridge. The final granite tooth rises some 2500 to 3000 feet.

Patrick Cordier, Groupe de Haute Montagne

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