American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Distaghil Sar, Second Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Distaghil Sar, Second Ascent. After arriving on June 23 at Nagar, we spent two days haggling with the porter chiefs. We finally contracted for 37 porters and a sirdar. We ascended the Hispar valley and glacier and on July 1 got to Bularung on the Kunyang Glacier. With the help of other porters from Hunza, we moved supplies to Base Camp at 14,600 feet on the true right lateral moraine from July 3 to 8. Our liaison officer and cook stayed at Bularung and then returned to Hunza. We placed Camp I at the foot of the southeast face of Distaghil Sar at 16,400 feet on July 8. Camps II and III were established on the face at 19,350 and 21,650 feet on July 19 and 22. We fixed 2600 feet of rope between Camps I and II and 1000 feet between Camps II and III. We were entirely on snow and ice. We followed the route of the only other ascent, that of Wolfgang Stefan’s Austrian expedition of 1960 except between Camps I and II, where we were well to the right. From July 19 on, we finally had good weather. The summit attack began on July 26. Five climbers ascended to Camp III on July 28. Three carried to Camp IV the next day, fixing 500 more feet of rope, and established it on July 30 at 23,800 feet on the west ridge. On July 31 Ramón Biosca, Jaume Matas and Toni Bros set out. Bros was too tired to climb the last 150 feet, but the other two arrived on the summit (7885 meters, 25,868 feet) at 2:50 P.M. They were back at Camp IV at seven P.M. Soft snow made the descent to Base Camp take two days more. Other members were Dr. Josep Aced, Josep Paytubi and I as leader.

Joaquim Prunés, Club Muntanyenc de Terrassa, Spain

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