American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Latok I Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Latok I Attempt. (The officially designated Latok I, called Latok II by the Italians.) The mountain was everything we expected: superb rock, good line, good sustained climbing. Unfortunately Martin Boysen, Choe Brooks, John Yates and I could not finish the job. We attempted the north ridge tried by the Americans in 1978. (See A.A.J., 1979, pages 24 to 28 for text and photos.) In July we placed Base Camp at the junction of the Panmah and Choktoi Glaciers and Advance Base up the Choktoi. There was more snow than usual around. Our first 2½-day sortie was to leave equipment and a tent a third of the way up the ridge. The second attempt took place several days later. We reached our high point in a day and continued up for two more. On the fourth day one of the team decided it was too dangerous. A single person could not retreat safely or stay in the tent alone and so we had to retreat. Afterwards we had no food, equipment or inclination to return.

Rab Carrington, Alpine Climbing Group

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.