Savoia Kangri Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Jan Tichý, Jirí Ulrych, my brother Zdenek Lukeš and me. All but my brother are Czechs in exile. We set up Base Camp on June 6 at the junction of the Godwin Austen and Savoia Glaciers at 16,400 feet. We had only 23 days left for the climb. From then until June 19 bad weather prevented our occupying Advance Base at 17,725 feet on the Savoia Glacier at the foot of Savoia Kangri I (7263 meters, 23,830 feet). The 6000-foot-high east face seemed best, as the rest of the mountain was avalanche-threatened. Without Ulrych, on June 20 we started up the prominent ridge. We were stopped on June 22 by strong winds and snowfall 2000-feet-up. On June 24 we came to where the ridge abutted the true face. The link was a very delicate, thin ice ridge. We just did not have enough time or equipment to cross this. We had reached 21,500 feet. After our descent, the weather deteriorated again, confirming we had made the right decision.

Cestmír Lukeš, Czech living in Switzerland