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Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak

Broad Peak. We started from Dassu with 52 porters on June 24 and got to Base Camp at 16,400 feet, west of Broad Peak, eight days later with 42 porters, having been able to send ten back who had been carrying food. We had no high-altitude porters and used no artificial oxygen. We established camps at 21.000 and 23,300 feet. For the first three weeks the weather was never good enough to go above 21,325 feet. Then it turned fine until our departure. The route started up a steep gully with mostly bare ice in the upper part, where we fixed 500 feet of rope. The rest of the way to the upper camp was steep ribs and slopes, generally free from avalanches and almost no crevasses. Up to 23.000 feet there was hardly a flat spot for a tent. The last part below the col between the middle and main peaks is a basin, usually filled with much snow. From the col to the foresummit the ridge is exposed and corniced. From there to the summit it is nearly flat. By previous arrangement, we were joined on the summit climb by three Austrians: Georg Bachler, Werner Sucher and Walter Lösch. With them, Hans Kirchberger, Konrad Lewanskowski, Ralph Bärtle and I climbed to the summit (8047 meters, 26,400 feet) on July 23. The other members of our expedition were Sepp Ölker, Walter Janner and Otto Parzhuber.

Peter Gloggner, Deutscher Alpenverein