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Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak, West Ridge Attempt

Broad Peak, West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Paul Briggs, Steve Strain, Bob McIntosh and me as leader, but McIntosh injured his knee near the tongue of the Baltoro Glacier and had to leave the expedition. We arrived in Skardu on June 19. We walked to Base Camp at 15,750 feet from June 22 to July 2. We acclimatized until July 8 around Base Camp and on July 9 we climbed to 18,500 feet up the same couloir used by previous expeditions and spent the night, during which there was an earthquake. We descended to Base Camp on the 10th. From July 11 to 17 it snowed every night; the new snow melted off by mid-afternoon but much snow accumulated high on the mountain. We had hoped for a four-day period of settled weather to make a summit bid. On July 17 Briggs and Strain climbed to Camp I at 20,600 feet, but bad weather set in and they descended. We walked out to Skardu from July 20 to 27.

Howard A. Weaver