Gasherbrum II Tragedy. After arriving at Dassu by jeep, Glenn Brindeiro, Steven Casebolt, Donald Goodman, David Hambly, Dr. Brack Hattler, David McClung, Dr. Thomas Vaughan and I as leader on May 15 started our trek to Base Camp (16,500 feet), which we reached on May 27. Thanks to the trail blazing by the Austrian expedition, we found the fierce-looking South Gash- erbrum icefall relatively easy. Camp I was at 18,000 feet just above the first icefall. One night we were nearly blown away by an ice avalanche from Hidden Peak. From Camp I to Camp II (19,700 feet), the South Gasherbrum Glacier was horribly crevassed and both we and members of other expeditions took falls into hidden crevasses. Our route, the Austrian southwest ridge route of 1956, was straightforward but steep. Up to Camp III (21,150 feet) Casebolt and Goodman fixed rope most of the way. During the second part of June the weather was often bad. Despite heavy snowfalls, Casebolt and Goodman forced the way up to Camp IV (23,000 feet). Finally, on June 28, Brindeiro, Casebolt, Goodman and Hambly moved up to Camp III and the following day they continued on to Camp IV. Goodman, not feeling well, returned to Camp III. Camp IV was very exposed and buffeted by strong winds until July 1. On that evening an enormous avalanche swept the south face of Gasherbrum II. July 2 dawned fine, clear, cold and calm. Brindeiro, Casebolt and Hambly tried to establish Camp V at 24,500 feet. They climbed unroped as had other expeditions. On the ridge the snow was knee-deep and the slope increased to 45° by the time they reached the rock section at 23,500 feet. While they discussed the snow conditions, the snow slope to their right avalanched. Hambly, the highest, was knocked over, Casebolt, some 30 feet below, was carried down about 50 feet, but of Brindeiro, who was 30 feet below Casebolt, there was no sign. The ridge fell off to the right as a 30° slope for 50 to 100 yards before dropping off in a series of ice cliffs. An immediate search from the top and side of the ice cliffs revealed nothing. Because of avalanche danger, no attempt was made to enter the ice cliffs for a further search. They descended to Camp III in very poor snow conditions and increasingly bad visibility. Further examination of the ice cliffs during the descent from Camp III to Camp II was also unsuccessful.

Michael D. Clarke