American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), North Face. We made the seventh ascent of Hidden Peak by a partially new route, the north face, when Michel Dacher, Sigi Hupfauer and I got to the summit (8068 meters, 26,470 feet) on July 22. Base Camp was established on June 18 and Camp I on June 21. We had placed Camp II at 21,000 feet on the Gasherbrum La on June 26 before nearly a month of bad weather set in. We could not start on the summit push until July 18. The most difficult part of the route was rotten rock (UIAA IV and V) between Camps II and III, which we established at 23,300 feet. At Camp III we joined the Habeler-Messner route of 1975, which had been well to the right of ours. On the summit day we went too far to the left, to a rib in the north face, had to retrace our steps a considerable distance and so got to the summit very late, at 6:20 P.M. We could not find Camp III in the dark and had to bivouac 350 feet above it. Dr. Gerhard Schmatz, Dr. Wolfgang Shaffert and Peter Vogler had to give up their attempt at 23,000 feet because of frightful weather. (This was Dacher’s fifth 8000er and Sturm’s and Hupfauer’s fourth.—Editor.)

Günter Sturm, Deutscher Alpenverein

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