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Asia, India—Ladakh-Kashmir, Z3 and P 5750, Zanskar

Z3 and P 5750, Zanskar. Our objective had been to climb P 6550 at the head of the Durung Drum Glacier. We ascended the glacier for about ten miles and placed Base Camp at 14,775 feet. However bad weather and intestinal infections caused us to change our program. Domenico Bidese, Giancarlo Contalbrigo, Paolo Ghitti and Franco Brunello on August 14 climbed Z3 (6280 meters, 20,604 feet) from a camp at 17,725 feet, which was not easy to reach and where we fixed rope on the approach. This beautiful snow peak was one of the few in the group which had been previously climbed. That same day Giuseppe Pierantoni and I climbed lovely P 5750 (18,865 feet), which lies just north of 73. We ascended the north ridge and face from Base Camp and had notable rock-and-ice difficulties. At the same time Alberto Campanile soloed the same peak by a steeper and more difficult route on the north face.

Ostilio Campese, Club Alpino Italiano