Kun. Our expedition made the difficult crossing of the Suru river on August 16. Fortunately we had a small pneumatic boat. We climbed the northeast ridge, the normal route. We placed Base Camp at 14,750 feet on the 18th, Camp I at 17,725 feet on the 20th (the glacier was easy but dangerously crevassed), Camp II at 19,700 feet on the 22nd (two steep walls and an easy glacier) and Camp III at 20,675 feet on the 26th (after a long but easy crossing of the plateau). On August 28 Michel Vincent, Marie Guislaine Jessenne, André Berthet, Pascal Jouenne, Léonard LaLoy, Jean Pierre Gadel, Robert Geay and Christian Deronce made a 14-hour round-trip summit climb up the difficult summit ridge. On the 29th Guy Lemoine and Christian Meynier reached the summit. An injured ankle kept me from the climb. The weather was generally bad except for August 27 and 28. We registered -25° C at Camp III on August 29 and some climbers suffered frostbite. Bears came to Base Camp on several nights. They destroyed six unoccupied tents but did not bother the occupied ones.

Claude Jaccoux, Club Alpin Français