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Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Koa Rong IV

Koa Rong IV. Our expedition comprised Lieutenant Colonel Richard Hardie, John James Farquharson, Graham Hall, Corporals Jeffrey Schuneman and Ian Clegg, Lieutenant Tom Beese, Sergeant Gareth Davies, Lance Corporal Anthony Dean and Troopers Ian Allcroft, Stuart Ward and Moray Orr. We reached the roadhead at Darcha by bus on August 27. Base Camp was finally established on September 3 at 16,000 feet north of Koa Rong IV. On September 5 Camp I was established at 16,500 feet at the foot of the icefall leading to the summit ramp. Hardie and Davies found a route through the icefall which led into a snow bowl, where Camp II was placed at 19,500 feet on September 7. From there the steep north ice face with a rock ridge on the left led directly to the summit. Hardie and Davies completed the first ascent of Koa Rong IV (6340 meters, 20,800 feet) on September 8. During the next three days we managed to get a further five people to the summit.

Charles A. Hookey, Captain, British Army