American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Tilicho

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Tilicho. A 14-person expedition sponsored by the German Alpine Club’s Mountain and Ski School was led by Günther Härter. They approached in 14 days from Dumre up the Marsyandi valley to Base Camp on the west shore of Tilicho Lake at 16,050 feet, reaching there on October 11. Camps I and II were established at 19,000 and 20,675 feet on October 13 and 15 respectively. The summit (7132 meters, 23,400 feet) was reached on October 17 by Härter, Josef Hirtreiter, Adi Welsch and Sherpas Ang Dorje and Ang Pasang. Two later summit teams were driven back by strong winds and snowfall. The route was the northeast spur and north slope, the same as the Swiss route of 1980. The summit slope was in part threatened by windslabs. They fixed 4250 feet of rope.

Günter Sturm, Deutscher Alpenverein

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