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Asia, Nepal, Fang (Varaha Shikhar) Attempt

Fang (Varaha Shikhar) Attempt. Although the Fang (7647 meters, 25,088 feet) is the third highest summit in the Annapurna group, it has had less attention from climbers, possibly because its name does not have “Annapurna” in it. It lies southwest of Annapurna I. Our expedition wanted to make a new route by climbing the east side of the south ridge and continuing along the ridge. This was completely different from the only ascent yet made; the Austrians in 1980 passed Moditse on the other side from us, on the west, climbed from the southwest and finished on the west ridge. Unfortunately, due to very bad weather and huge avalanche danger, we did not reach the south ridge. Base Camp was in the Annapurna Sanctuary. Camp I was on a moraine beside the east glacier. The route on the glacier to Camp II was treacherous because of hidden crevasses and unstable séracs, rendered worse by warm weather. We placed Camp III at the foot of the east slope of the south ridge at 20,850 feet. We got to a high point of 22,300 feet on May 6 on the very steep snow slope, which was about 70° near the top and was very dangerous after heavy snowfall. We realized that if we kept on, we would be carried away by avalanches. The members were Sylvain Sarthou, leader, Patrice de Belfon, Pierre Viorrain, Pierre Ravier and I.

Henri Sigayret, Club Alpin Français