American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna IV

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Annapurna IV. Our expedition, organized by Auslandsbergfahrten of Graz, Austria, had five Austrians, eight Yugoslavs, two Swiss, a sirdar and two Sherpas. After an eight-day approach from Dumre to Omgre in the Marsiyandi valley in the last days of September, we established Base Camp at 15,425 feet under the northern slopes of Annapurna IV. We ascended the northern slopes to the northwest ridge, placing Camps I, II and III at 17,400, 19,700 and 22,300 feet. We fixed 600 feet of rope below Camp I and 200 feet below Camp II. On October 15 Jean Luc Amstutz, Swiss, and Willi Wehinger and Walter Bell, Austrians, reached the Dome, the 7450-meter (24,443-foot) foresummit. On October 17 Sirdar Pemba Lama, Sherpa Ang Nima, Mario Bago, Edin Alikalfic, Yugoslavs, and I, Austrian got to the summit (7525 meters, 24,688 feet). That same day the Dome was reached by Theo Kubicka, Herbert Kaltenegger, Austrians, and Zelco Gobec, Yugoslav.

Wolfgang Stefan, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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