American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Lamjung Himal, Southeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Lamjung Himal, Southeast Ridge. Our women’s expedition was composed of Key Hyoung-Hee, Youn Hyun-Ok, Lee Won-Haeng, So You-Mee, Manager Kim Kyung-Bae and me as leader. Our difficult route on the southeast ridge starting from Chame had been previously untried. We set up Base Camp at 12,500 feet on April 8, Camp I at 16,250 feet on April 15 and Camp II at 17,725 feet on April 20. Between Camps II and III, which was established on May 2 at 20,675 feet, the steep ridge is knife-edged. In honor of Korean Children’s Day, May 5, Key Hyoung-Hee, the Sherpani sirdar Ang Riti and Sherpas Nima Wangchu and Dawa Wangchu started for the summit, late because of strong winds, and had to bivouac at 22,650 feet. On May 6 they met blue ice close to the summit. They stepped onto the top (6986 meters, 22,920 feet) at 12:20. A second party, Youn Hyun-Ok and Sherpas Ang Phurba and Pemba Tshering, reached the summit at 2:30 P.M. On top they met the Japanese expedition, which had taken a different route.

Chung Keel-Soon, Sunkyong Women’s Alpine Club, Korea

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