Kang Guru. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Borislav Aleraj, Stipe Božic, Marijan Cepelak, Mladen Briški, Nenad Pivac, Branimir Predovic, Borislav Starcevic, Branko Šeparovic, Boris Vrbek and me as leader. The main party having left Dumre on September 22, we met our southeast-face reconnaissance group on September 27 at Dharapani. Due to great difficulties on the approach from Karche to the mountain, we changed to the west face, the German route of 1954. We established Base Camp on September 30 at 11,800 feet. Camp I was at 15,750 feet. We fixed 125 feet of rope on a rock step at 15,900 feet and another 125 feet on an ice step at 18,050 feet. Camp II was established at 19,000 feet on October 5 and Camp III at 20,675 feet on October 11. On October 12 Božic, Šeparovic and I climbed to the summit (6981 meters, 22,904 feet). Šeparovic skied from 22,300 feet and Božic from 20,350 feet to the end of the snow at 16,000 feet.
Vladimir Mesaric, Planinarski Savez Jugoslavije