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Asia, Nepal, Khatang, Rolwaling Himal

Khatang, Rolwaling Himal. This mountain was opened to climbers only in 1981 and we were the first to try it. We climbed the northeast ridge. We established the following camps: Base Camp at 15,700 feet on October 8 and Camps I, II and III at 17,825, 19,325 and 20,700 feet on October 12, 26 and 30 respectively. The northeast ridge is very steep, knife-edged and with unstable snow. The most difficult climbing was between Camps II and III. The following reached the summit (6853 meters, 22,484 feet): Tastumi Kawamura, Yoshimi Kitayama, Dorje Sherpa on November 1; Koji Kimura, Hideaki Sato, Chiharu Watanabe on November 2; and Kenji Koyama, Shigenori Sawada, Takehiko Ono on November 2 from Camp II.

Masaru Otani, Japan Workers’ Federation Hokkaido