Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. Our expedition sought to make an alpine-style winter ascent of Ama Dablam. We were Kurt Krueger, Steve Risse, Steve Jorgenson, Dan Murphy and me with Mark Knaebe as Base Camp manager. After troubles recruiting enough porters for the approach, we finally on December 3 established Base Camp at 15,800 feet. Relatively easy ground led to Camp I at 19,000 feet on the south ridge. Without Sherpa support, each team member had to make several carries before Camp I was occupied on December 9. Unexpectedly Murphy left the expedition on the 11th. Above Camp I interesting and varied rock climbing up to 5.7 along the ridge led to Camp II, established on top of the Red Tower at 19,700 feet on December 15. A mixture of rock (up to 5.8) and snow (50° to 60°) took us to Camp III at 20,700 feet. On December 22, Camp III was made on a snow plateau near the base of the summit pyramid, but because of high winds it was moved the next day 200 feet lower. The first summit bid was made on December 24 by Risse, Jorgenson, Krueger and me. Low temperatures and high winds made the 60° snow climbing miserably exciting. We continued to 21,500 feet before retreating to Camp III. Krueger and I made a second summit try on December 26 but were again turned back by cold and high winds.

Robert Siegrist, Wisconsin Hoofers