American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Omi Kangri

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Omi Kangri. Our joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition was composed of Kotaro Nakajima, Yoshinori Suzuki, Shinichi Kohara, Michio Maki, Jun Goto, Ms. Michiko Suzuki, Hideichi Gomi, Dr. Junichi Shioda and me as leader, Japanese, and Nawang Khroklang, Ang Temba and Ang Kalden, Nepalese. Omi Kangri is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, northwest of Kanchenjunga, at the head of the Yangma Khola, from which the Tamur River springs. One finds no report of climbing there. There are many virgin peaks over 6500 meters in the Yangma Khola. On April 3 we set up Base Camp at 16,400 feet on the right bank of the Pandra Glacier after 17 days of approach from Dharan Bazar. Since it was impossible to climb the glaciers on either side of the south ridge because of 1000-foot icefalls in the lower parts and crevasses higher, we climbed the south ridge itself. There were slabby rock cliffs low and bad snow conditions higher. On April 9 we set up Camp I at 18,875 feet on the south ridge. Above Camp I we fixed 1500 feet of rope on the steep ice face and narrow snow ridge to reach the foot of the buttress. We traversed around the foot of the buttress and climbed a snow gully to set up Camp II at 20,000 feet on the snow ridge on April 18. Camp III at 20,850 feet was placed on April 27 on the snow plateau after climbing past crevasses and a snow wall. The ridge continued to the summits. There are three summits: east, central and west. The central summit is 100 feet higher than the other two. On April 29 Nakajima, Gomi, Nawang Khroklang and I reached the east peak as the first summit party. However, fierce winds and snow prevented our going to the central summit. On May 1 the second bid was made by Y. Suzuki, Kohara and Ang Temba. They reached the central peak in four hours from the east peak. The Nepalese Ministry of Tourism reports Omi Kangri as being 7922 meters (25,991 feet) high. Other maps give it as 7028 (23,059 feet). Our altimeter broke before we got to Camp III (and we feel that Camp III may be higher than we recorded it). We can infer the height of Omi Kangri by comparisons with other peaks. It is lower than Jannu (7710 meters). It seems as high or a little higher than the Twins (7380 meters). It is nearly as high as Jongsang Peak (7473 meters). It is much higher than the Outlier (7090 meters). Our opinion is that Omi Kangri is about 7400 meters (24,279 feet).

Toshio Kaneko, Tokyo Metropolitan Government Alpine Club

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