Antarctica, Monte Francés and Other Peaks, Grahamland

Publication Year: 1983.

Monte Francés and Other Peaks, Grahamland. Sponsored by the Instituto Antártico Chileno an expedition of 19 climbers and scientists participated in the 18th Antarctic campaign that this institute carried out in the southern summer of 1981-2. The Osterrieth Mountains of Anvers Island were chosen as a suitable goal. Base Camp was established on Point Biscoe, where scientific work by glaciologists and geodesists (including two German engineers from Hannover University) was carried out with the support of the climbers. The mountaineering objectives were accomplished with the aid of two high camps on the ice, at 450 meters (1476 feet) and 750 meters (2460 feet) above sea level. After an approach march of 15 kilometers on skis, Gino Casassa and Dagoberto Delgado made the first ascent of the south summit of Monte Francés (2630 meters, 8630 feet) on January 27, by way of its northwest ridge. On February 5, Eduardo Garcia, Félix Quiroz, and Jorge Quinteros climbed the main, northeast summit (2822 meters, 9259 feet), believed to be a second ascent (first ascent by an Argentinian party; A.A.J. 1968, page 231). On February 7, in a near blizzard Alejandro Izquierdo, Patricio Toro and Abelardo Velasquez climbed the imposing peak of Monte Egregio (1300 meters, 4265 feet). Monte Williams (c. 2000 meters, 6561 feet), the most attractive peak in the Osterrieth, was next. On February 15, Delgado, Izquierdo, Toro and Velásquez, plus Andrés and Cedomir Marangunic climbed it by its northeast ridge. Two days later, leader Quinteros and Casassa climbed the steep southwest wall and ridge, which was occasionally crowned by snow mushrooms. A bivouac had to be placed at 1750 meters (5740 feet).

Humberto Barrera, Club Andino de Chile, Santiago