American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chilean-Argentinian Patagonia, Cuerno Principal del Paine

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Cuerno Principal del Paine. Nelson Rivera, Francisco Medina, Eduardo Párvex and I made the second ascent of the Chilean route and third ascent of the mountain on the Cuerno Principal (Main Horn) del Paine. On January 1 we climbed for four hours to bivouac amid huge granite blocks next to the peak. On January 2 we climbed a granite buttress which left us at the foot of the black rock final section. We went around the summit block to the north and rappelled onto the northeast face. The black rock was very rotten at first but got better as we ascended. There were eight rope-lengths of UIAA V and one of VI difficulty. This part of the climb took us six hours. On the summit we found a carabiner, apparently left by the American-South African second-ascent party in 1976.

IvÁn Vigouroux, Federación de Andinismo de Chile

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