AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Chilean-Argentinian Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, East Face, Cerro Eléctrico Principal, Cerro 30° Aniversario Traverse and Attempt on Fitz Roy

Aguja Guillaumet, East Face, Cerro Eléctrico Principal, Cerro 30° Aniversario Traverse and Attempt on Fitz Roy. My husband Gino Buscaini and I had our Base Camp at the Piedra del Fraile on the Río Eléctrico from December 13, 1981 to February 9. The weather in December was unsettled with a few good days, but from January to February 9 it was nearly constantly bad. On December 27, 1981, in good weather, we made a difficult (UIAA V, A2) route, 1500 feet in height, on the east face of the Aguja Guillaumet (2593 meters, 8507 feet). The route* ascended the middle of the face and ended up the edge of the snow summit triangle. On January 2 we were driven back from Fitz Roy’s Supercanaleta (Super Couloir), first climbed in 1965 by Fonrouge and Comesaña. In rather poor weather we then on January 8 climbed the long, easy west ridge of Cerro Eléctrico Principal (2182 meters, 7269 feet). In cloudy weather on January 25 we again set out up the Supercanaleta and reached the first 1965 bivouac. On the 26th we climbed the couloir to about 650 feet from the summit of Fitz Roy but were stopped by hurricane-strength winds. On January 27 the continued violence of the wind forced us to descend the couloir under dangerous conditions. From February 2 to 4 we made the following trip: from the Piedra del Fraile up the Marconi Glacier to el Morro, across the Gorra Blanca Glacier up the south ridge of Cerro Neumayer, down to a tributary glacier of the Laguna del Diablo, traverse of the Cerro del 30° Anniversario from west to east to a col before the east foresummit, down the south face and back through the forest to the Piedra del Fraile.

Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano

* It seems likely that this was the route taken in 1979 by Jim Jennings and Robert Beager. See A.A.J., 1980, page 598.—Editor.