Llihirini I, Ancohuma, Illimani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. We three reached Base Camp in the northern Cordillera Real from La Paz after two days’ drive and two days’ walk. Stephen Venables and I climbed Viluyo I (5638 meters, 18,500 feet) on August 11 via the southwest ridge. Joined by David Wilkinson, on August 14 we ascended Hancopiti I (5867 meters, 19,249 feet) via the north glacier and west ridge and descended the northwest face. All three of us climbed Llihirini (5970 meters, 19,587 feet) up the steep névé of the south face and then we traversed with mixed climbing along the interesting east ridge on August 13. This traverse may be new. Venables and Wilkinson made a west-to-east traverse of Espalda (c. 5700 meters, 18,701 feet) on August 21. An attempt on the east buttress of Ancohuma was thwarted by rockfall during a bivouac which temporarily incapacitated Wilkinson and me. In the interim Venables soloed the southeast couloir and south ridge of Ancohuma on August 23, descending the north side. In late August I soloed Illimani, starting up the west ridge and then continuing more directly to the summit on the west face.

Lindsay N. Griffin, Alpine Climbing Group