Huayanay V, 1981, Cordillera Vilcabamba. In 1976 the Scottish expedition to the Huayanay Range indicated that three peaks remained unclimbed, namely Huayanay III (Nevado Palchaioj), Huayanay V (Huayallabamba) and Nevado Esquina. It appeared that Huayanay III and V were located behind the main range. At Kilometer 88 on the Cuzco-Quillabamba railroad, there is a valley running north with snow peaks at the end of it. On April 30, 1981, Steve Amstutz, Robert Randall and I set out from Kilometer 88. Tom Hendrickson and Nan Starbuck-Boardman followed two days later. We managed to get on a trail passing through the village of Jacas. On May 1 we established Base Camp at the head of the valley. On May 2 we crossed a 14,500-foot ridge behind Base Camp. The next day, departing at 2:30 A.M., Amstutz, Randall and I climbed Huayanay V in five hours of straightforward snow climbing. Henrickson and Starbuck-Boardman that same day put up an entirely different all-rock route on the same peak. Our altimeter showed 17,000 feet (5182 meters). A local called the peak “Quimsa Kocha Punta.”

John E. Saunders. Alpine Club of Canada