American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Southern Peru, Jatunhuma I, West Face, Cordillera Vilcanota

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Jatunhuma I, West Face, Cordillera Vilcanota. Dave Wilkinson and I spent twelve days in the area, based at Ticlacocha. Apart from the rubbish piles, it was a delightful place and we were blessed with the promised good Andean weather. Campa I and Ccapana by the normal routes provided two easy training climbs before we tackled our main objective, Jatunhuma I (6094 meters, 19,994 feet). We made the first ascent of the west face, 2300 feet of ice steepening to 65° in the upper part. From a bivouac at the foot of the mountain, we climbed the face in 13 hours, bivouacking again under the summit cornices. The peak had no straightforward descent. We traversed the summit ridge southwards and then descended the east face and southeast ridge by a mixture of abseiling, down-climbing and traversing, bivouacking a third time near the bottom. Then a long, circuitous glacier plod took us back to Ticlacocha. We then went to Bolivia. (See that section.)

Stephen Venables, Alpine Club

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