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South America, Central Peru, Tanraniyoc, Cordillera Central

Tanraniyoc, Cordillera Central. Southwest of Huancayo, about 12 miles east of Yauyos, is a range of rock peaks and small glaciers that has received almost no mountaineering attention. In June Mike Stewart and I hiked in from Yauricocha on the north and camped at 15,500 feet between the two highest peaks in the range, both given on the map as 5431 meters (17,818 feet). We climbed the easternmost of the two, passing cliffs at the bottom via a couloir, climbing a glacier on the peak’s southwest side and turning north on the very narrow summit ridge to a rocky summit. The Peruvian IGN map labeled the peak Tanraniyoc, but local people gave about four other names. We made only one first ascent, to afford as many other climbers as possible the same privilege we had.

Douglas Rice, Unaffiliated